A BEGINNER’S GUIDE TO AMARO
If you’ve ever had a trendy Aperol Spritz at aperitivo hour, then you’ve already encountered the obscure amaro category. Amari (plural for amaro) are bittersweet liqueurs originating in Italy that date back to medieval monks who used these elixirs for medicinal purposes — most commonly to stimulate the appetite (aka aperitivos), and to aid digestion (aka digestivos). And while you’re most likely familiar with Campari and Aperol because of their vibrant red hues, and prevalence in modern cocktail culture, there is a whole range of unique amari produced all around the world.
While Italy is the holy grail for these bittersweet liqueurs, the craft spirits movement has seen many new producers enter the amaro space — especially in America. It’s a category that has gained momentum because of the lifestyle, and traditions, associated with drinking it. As imbibers, we seek out bars and spirits that give us a sense of place. We embrace transportive drinking experiences, and that can be as simple as buying a bottle of wine that maybe isn’t the best, but it was the first bottle that you had when you visited Napa Valley for the first time, and it takes you back. When drinking amaro, the feeling is similar: There is culture, sentiment, purpose, and ritual that come along with many of the amari, and it’s a reason why many of them have stuck around.
The reasons why monks used to prescribe amari to their patients are the same reasons why contemporary tipplers enjoy these bitter liqueurs today: to stimulate the appetite before eating, and to digest after dinner. Regardless of when you drink your amari, there are a few common characteristics shared amongst all of them: they’re made with a neutral spirit base, similar to a vodka, or a grappa; they contain a bittering agent, such as gentian flowers or roots, or a bark like wormwood; and each expression contains a variety of botanicals to add flavor, and color, to the liqueur. Producers can add as many as sixty different herbs, fruits, spices, and other ingredients into their recipes, which makes the range of flavors virtually endless, but tasting them is the only way to know what you like, and what you don’t.
To give you the basic rundown on some of the most popular amari, I’m going to separate the liqueurs into two main groups: aperitivos, and digestivos; then add subcategories of specific style to familiarize yourself with the category. This isn’t an exhaustive guide, but it’ll get you started on your bittersweet journey.
Aperitivi
This category of amari are, typically, red-hued, or lighter in color, and are frequently used in cocktails. Here are a few bottlings to exemplify the range of styles within this category that can be characterized as either bitter, floral, or citrusy — or a mix of both. (Note: all of them are slightly bitter, but to different degrees.)
Campari
The red-hued father of the aperitivo family is bold, bitter, and not easily tamed. Most cocktail enthusiasts are familiar with Campari because of its popular cocktail applications, such as the Negroni.
Aperol
Aperol is typically referred to as Campari’s less bitter and more citrus-forward cousin. Its gorgeous red hue is what turns the heads of brunch goers everywhere, and is one reason why the Aperol Spritz has taken the world by storm. It’s an essential to have for the home bar, and isn’t too pricey.
Montenegro
Amaro Montenegro is crafted from a secret blend of 40 botanicals, and is considered the world’s best liqueur after winning many awards. Vanilla, nutmeg, and bitter orange are a few of its distinct flavors, and it’s a favorite amongst bartenders. Traditionally enjoyed as a digestivo, Montenegro’s citrusy characteristics make it a popular aperitivo as well.
Amaro Nonino
The Nonino family is famous for their award-winning grappa, but their Amaro Nonino Quintessentia is one of the most elegant expressions of amari on the market. The ancient recipe boasts ingredients such as bitter orange peel, cinchona bark, galangal, gentian, licorice, quassia, rhubarb root, saffron, and tamarind, making it herbal, and citrusy with a balanced sweetness. For cocktail lovers, it’s a key component in Sam Ross’ Paper Plane.
Suze
This yellow-hued French aperitivo is abrasively bitter, made with fresh, wild gentian that’s carefully selected and aged over a long period of time. On the palate, expect a strong followed by floral and citrus notes.
Italicus
One of the newer aperitivos on the market, Italicus is made with authentic Italian bergamot, rose petals (as it’s a rosolio-style aperitivo) and other botanicals. It’s light with notes of citrus, white flowers, and herbs as well. A nice-to-have liqueur for the home bar with one of the most gorgeous bottle designs as well.
Digestivi
These post-dinner bittersweet liqueurs have many different styles, but are mostly darker, and richer in flavor and body. Digestivi can also include dessert-like liqueurs, but the ones listed below are strictly amari that supposedly aid digestion due to their medicinal nature. While the bottlings are virtually endless, I’ve broken this category down into four separate subcategories: Fernet, Rabarbaro, Carciofo, and Alpine.
Fernet
A bracingly bitter style of amaro that can be identified by its mentholated flavor that comes from ingredients such as aloe ferox, saffron, myrrh, and mint; and is, typically, of higher alcohol content. Fernet Branca is the most well-known within the category, but small craft producers have begun releasing their own expressions as well. Try it in the Hanky Panky, a fresh riff on the Martinez.
Bottles to try: Fernet Branca, Fernet Francisco
Rabarbaro
This style of amaro is defined by its use of Chinese rhubarb root, which imparts an earthy, smoky flavor profile to the blend of botanicals. They are balanced with notes of tea, dark fruits, and citrus flavors, and are very cocktail friendly for the adventurous home bartender.
Bottles to try: Cappelletti Amaro Sfumato Rabarbaro, Zucca Rabarbaro Amaro
Carciofo
Carciofo amari are defined by the inclusion of artichoke leaves in the botanical mix. Cynar has been the most well-known example of this style since it was created in 1952. The category is bitter, with savory vegetal flavors, and cola-like characteristics as well.
Bottles to try: Cynar, Cynar 70, Don Ciccio & Figli C3 Carciofo
Alpine
Alpine amaro is defined by the use of high-altitude botanicals like gentian, wormwood and juniper that grow on the slopes and valleys of mountain ranges (i.e alpine areas). These amari are bright, minty, bitter, and balanced with delicate baking spices.
Bottle to try: Braulio